If your washing machine is being excessively noisy during cycles, or if the drum is moving around more than it should, it means your washing machine's bearings have likely gone and need replacing. Washing machine bearings sit behind the drum at the back of the appliance, so the washing machine bearing replacement process can be quite tricky if you aren't sure what steps to take. Fortunately, we're going to show you how to replace washing machine bearings step by step in this article so you can get your appliance working properly once more.
In this guide, we will be carrying out the bearing replacement on a Bosch washing machine. The steps may differ slightly depending on your particular make and model of washing machine, but the process should generally be similar.
How to tell if your washing machine bearings need replacing
When an appliance is faulty, it's not always easy to identify the problem if you aren't sure what to look for. That's why it's important to know what happens when bearings go in a washing machine, so you can be sure it's the bearings that need replacing rather than another faulty part instead.
One sign that the bearings have gone and need replacing is a washing machine that's making extremely excessive noise. Some washing machine owners have described this as a "concrete mixer on overdrive", so if your appliance is making this level of noise, you will know it's most likely the bearings that are to blame. Another sign is if your washing machine's drum is moving around excessively in relation to the outer tub around it, as this will indicate the bearings have gone and are no longer keeping the drum stable.
Is it difficult to replace washing machine bearings?
Before replacing your washing machine bearings, it's important to note that this is a big job to carry out so you will need to set some time aside and give yourself plenty of space to work. However, replacing your appliance's bearings will save you a fortune in relation to replacing your whole appliance, and this guide will tell you everything you need to know to get the job done!
What you will need
To carry out this replacement, you will need the following:
- Torx Head Screwdriver
- Pliers
- 13mm Socket
- Chisel
- Hammer
- Bearings
- Tub Seal
- Silicone Sealant
- Pieces of Wood (or similar items for support)
Before buying the replacement bearings, it's important to note that there are a few separate parts; the front bearing, the rear bearing and the bearing seal. When you purchase replacement bearings, these parts may all be sold together or they may be sold separately depending on your make and model of washing machine, so it's important to make sure you have all three before proceeding.
As well as new bearings, it's also important to make sure you have a new tub seal at the ready too (as listed above) as this will also need to be replaced during this process.
Finding your model number
When buying bearings or any other spare parts for your washing machine, you'll first need to know your appliance's model number to make sure you purchase spares that are compatible with your particular appliance. The model will be displayed on a sticker or data plate, usually behind the door frame or the removable kickplate panel at the bottom of the washer. Your model number may be a combination of letters and numbers and could also include characters such as a dash (-) or a slash (/). If you're having trouble finding your model number or it has rubbed off, take a look at our video for more help.
How to replace washing machine bearings
Now, let's get started! To learn how to change bearings in a washing machine, either watch our video or read our step-by-step guide below.
Safety first
Always make sure your appliance has been switched off and fully disconnected from the mains before carrying out any work.
Step 1: Remove the top panel
For this replacement, you will need to remove the tub from inside the machine. To begin, remove the top panel by unscrewing the two screws that hold it in place at the back with a Torx screwdriver. Then lift the panel away and place it aside.
Tip: As you will be removing a lot of screws during this process, it's a good idea to keep them separate from each other so you don't lose any or get them mixed up. One good way to separate and organise the screws is to place them in separate squares in an ice cube container.
Step 2: Remove the soap dispenser tray
To remove the soap dispenser from the front of the machine, simply slide it out and press the rear interior catch with your finger to release it entirely.
Step 3: Remove the control panel
Next up, you will need to unscrew the front control panel (also known as the fascia) at the top of the machine. On the washing machine we're using there are three screws that need removing from around the soap dispenser door frame, then one more at the opposite side of the panel that's positioned on the side.
The fascia will now come away from the machine, but will still be connected by its electrical connections and wires. With the washing machine we're using in this guide, we can now simply place the panel on top of the appliance to keep it out of the way without disconnecting it. If you need to disconnect the electrical connections to get the panel out of the way with your appliance, however, make sure you take photos of the electrical connections first. You will then be able to use these photos as guidance for reconnecting the connections in the right places later on.
Step 4: Remove the kickplate
To remove the kickplate at the bottom of the machine (also known as the plinth), press the clips on either side and pull it away. You can then fully disconnect the kickplate by pulling off the drain hose and placing the kickplate aside.
Step 5: Unscrew the front panel
You can now prepare to remove the entire front panel by unscrewing the screws that hold it in place at the top and on the bottom. On the appliance we're using, there are four screws; two at the top and two at the bottom.
Step 6: Remove the door seal
Before fully removing the front panel, you will also need to remove the door seal, which is also known as the gasket. Work your screwdriver beneath the outer retaining band that's wrapped around the outside of the seal, then pry the retaining band away from the seal.
Step 7: Unscrew the door lock
You can then work your hand behind the seal to grab hold of the door lock from inside the door frame. Holding the door lock, use your other hand to unscrew the two screws that hold it in place. Once unscrewed, you can then let go of the door lock without needing to take it out of the machine.
Step 8: Remove the front panel
Now you can go ahead and fully remove the front panel by working it away from the washing machine and placing it aside.
Step 9: Disconnect the detergent tray
Next, you will need to remove the complete detergent tray. Remove the metal crossbar in front of the tray if necessary.
Then pull the detergent tray up through the top of the appliance so you can easily access the detergent hose.
Using your pliers, release the circular clip that keeps the detergent hose connected to the tub.
With the detergent tray separated from the tub, you can place it out of the way on top of the washing machine.
Step 10: Remove the counter-balance weights
You can now remove the counter-balance weights. There are two on the appliance we're using in this guide; one on the top, and then a circular weight around the door frame at the front which is held in place by a band and some screws. To remove the top weight, unscrew the bolts that hold it in place with your 13mm socket then lift it away.
To remove the front circular weight, unscrew the screws that hold the surrounding band and the weight in place. With the screws removed, lift the weight away from the machine and place it aside.
Step 11: Remove the heating element
At the bottom of the tub, you should be able to see some electrical connections that are connected to the element. Before disconnecting these, first take a photo so you can use it for reference when reconnecting them later. You can then go ahead and disconnect all the electrical connections.
Then, to fully remove the element, unscrew the nut. However, make sure you don't unscrew the nut entirely, but only until it reaches past the end of the bolt.
Then give the element screw a few firm taps with your chisel to release the seal.
This will allow you to then slide the element out by hand and fully remove it from the washing machine.
Step 12: Detach the sump hose
Next, it's time to detach the sump hose from the bottom of the tub. Before doing this, use your drain hose to drain out as much water as you can into a container.
Once you've done this, start by pulling the pressure hose out from the side of the tub.
Then unscrew the screw that holds the sump clip into place around the sump hose.
With the screw removed, you will be able to pull the sump hose off of the bottom of the tub.
You will also need to remove the cables that are still attached to the tub. You may need to disconnect a clip and remove a screw or two to do this.
Step 13: Remove the back panel
You can now turn the washing machine around and remove the back panel. To do this, unscrew the screws that hold the panel in place, then pull it away and place it aside.
Step 14: Remove the drive belt
Next, remove the drive belt that wraps around the pulley wheel at the back of the machine. To do this, pull the belt to one side as you turn the wheel to work the belt away. Be careful not to trap your fingers as you do this.
Step 15: Remove the motor
Now let's head down to the motor beneath the tub. To remove the motor, you will first need to disconnect the electrical connections that are connected to the motor block. Again, take a picture of these connections first so that you can refer to the photo later during the washing machine reassembly process.
To remove the motor itself, remove the two bolts that hold it in place beneath the tub.
You will then be able to pull the motor away, but be careful as you do this as the motor is quite heavy.
Step 16: Disconnect the pressure chamber
One last thing to remove whilst you're at the back and bottom of the machine is the pressure chamber. This is held in place with a plastic clip, which you can use your pliers to release. This will disconnect the pressure chamber from the tub.
Step 17: Remove the tub
Now that you've disconnected everything that you need to from the tub, you can start preparing to remove it. The tub is held in place by two springs at the top and two legs at the bottom. First, remove the legs. It's worth noting that the legs can be attached in a variety of different ways, depending on the washing machine's make and model. You may find it easier to remove the leg at the top where it attaches to the tub, whilst leaving the bottom attached to the chassis of the machine. However, as with the machine we're using, it may be easier to unscrew the legs at the bottom first using your socket.
With the legs removed, the last things holding the tub in place are the springs. You can go ahead and simply unhook these by hand.
With the tub entirely disconnected, you can go ahead and lift it out of the machine.
Step 18: Remove the door seal from the tub
Now that you have the tub out of the washing machine, you can fully remove the door seal. To do this, work your screwdriver behind the inner spring band that's still wrapped around the seal, then pry the band off the seal.
Once the spring band has been removed, you can pull the door seal off the door frame by hand.
Step 19: Remove the pulley wheel
With the door seal removed, turn the tub over so that you have easy access to remove the pulley wheel. As pictured below, you can rest the tub on a couple of pieces of wood (or something similar) as this will prevent the weight from snapping the plastic on the face of the tub.
Make sure the wheel is held in place, then use your 13mm socket to remove the central screw in the middle of the wheel and lift the wheel away.
If your bearings have completely seized, you might then need to use a hammer to knock on top of the spindle you removed the screw from. This will help loosen the drum inside.
Step 20: Separate the two halves of the tub
The two halves of the tub will be held in place by screws. Using your Torx head screwdriver, remove these screws to separate the two halves of the tub.
On your particular make and model, as with the one we are using, there may also be plastic tabs locking the halves together. If your particular washing machine has these tabs, there's no way to disconnect them all. Instead, you can simply remove them by breaking them off with a sharp chisel, a pair of pliers or a similar tool.
With the screws removed (and the tabs, if your model had them), you can now lay the tub on its side and pull apart the two halves. The front side will come away first...
And then the inner drum should simply slide out of the back half of the tub.
Step 21: Remove the old small rear bearing
Now it's time to remove and change the washing machine bearings. As pictured below, you will be able to see the bearing seal in the centre inside the back half of the tub. Beneath this is the large bearing and then the small bearing, which we are holding in the picture for reference to show you how they are positioned inside. There is a gap between the large bearing and the small bearing, so you will want to punch the small bearing through first.
Again, position the tub on top of two pieces of wood to give the small bearing room to fall out.
Place your chisel inside the hole, passing it through the bearing seal and large bearing. Then gently tap the chisel with a hammer, moving it around as you do so, to knock the small bearing through and out of the back of the tub. Be careful as you do this, as you don't want to damage the inner casing that the bearing sits in.
Step 22: Remove the old large bearing and seal
Once you've knocked through and removed the small bearing, you can then flip the back half of the tub over to remove the large bearing and bearing seal. For the model we've used, the tub is safe to simply be flipped over without placing any wood beneath as there are no plastic lugs that could get damaged. However, if your particular tub does have plastic lugs, make sure you place some wood beneath the rear half of the tub to take the weight. This will prevent the plastic lugs from breaking or becoming damaged.
You can then place the chisel inside the hole (this time from the outside of the tub). Repeat the process of tapping the large bearing and bearing seal free, working your way around with the chisel as you do so. You will hear the large bearing and seal fall through once you have knocked them loose.
Step 23: Clean the tub and bearing housing
At this point, you should give the inside of the rear half of the tub a clean with a limescale cleaner to remove any filth or grime.
It's especially important that you use a cloth to get inside the bearing housing and give it a good clean. Make sure there's no gunk in there that could get inside the bearings and damage them.
Step 24: Fit the new bearings
It's finally time to look at how to fit washing machine bearings in place of the old ones. Start with the large bearing, and knock it down into the bearing housing as far as the lip (as indicated below) with your hammer.
When doing this, it's important to note that the only part of the bearing you should knock is the very outer edge. Otherwise, you risk damaging the bearing before you've even fitted it.
One way to do this is to position a screw on the outer edge of the bearing, then knock the screw with a hammer to push the bearing into place. This will minimise any risk of damaging the bearing. Tap all around the bearing, working your way around, to make sure it fits evenly inside the housing.
You can also use your chisel in place of a screw for the last few millimetres. This may be easier than using a small screw as the large bearing is knocked further inside. You will be able to feel when you've knocked the large bearing in far enough.
With the large bearing in place, fit the seal over the top of it. Push the seal into place in the bearing housing above the large bearing, then gently tap it into place with a hammer until it's level with the rim of the housing.
You can then flip the rear half of the tub over to fit the small bearing from the outside. Again, before fitting the small bearing, make sure the area around it is very clean. Then gently hammer the small bearing into place, working your way around the edge to make sure it fits evenly inside the housing.
Step 25: Clean the top of the drum and spindle
Now that the new bearings are fitted, it's time to start resembling the tub. Before you begin, it's important to make sure the top of the drum (including the spider and the spindle) is clean and that there's no damage. If there is damage, you can replace the spider on some washing machine makes and models. However, with some appliances, the spider is riveted to the drum like it is with the machine we're using. In this case, the whole drum would need replacing if there was damage.
Tip: It's recommended that you run a cycle with some washing machine descaler once a month to keep the interior of your appliance clean and in good shape.
Step 26: Reassembling the tub
Once you've made sure the top of the drum and spindle are clean and undamaged, you can start reassembling the tub. Start by placing the rear half of the tub back onto the drum.
You can then put the pulley wheel back on and secure it into place by returning and tightening the bolt.
When reassembling the tub, you will also need to fit the new tub seal, as mentioned at the beginning of this guide. When doing this, first find the join in the seal, as this will need to be positioned at the top of the drum. Then wrap the seal around the drum and work it into the groove all the way around the edge of the tub, making sure the seal's join is at the top.
Once you've ensured the seal is firmly in place all the way around the tub's groove, apply the silicone sealant all the way around the top of the seal.
You can then place the front half of the tub onto the drum.
Flip the drum over so that it's lying on its front, then screw the two halves together by returning the screws you removed earlier. On some machines, the screw holes are numbered. If this is the case with your machine, you'll need to make sure you return the screws in the correct order. If not, return the screws back and forth on opposite sides so that the drum pulls together evenly.
Step 27: Check the seal is watertight
It's always a good idea to check that the seal is watertight before putting the machine back together. To do this, flip the drum back over onto its back half (the opposite way around than pictured below), then fill it up with water until the waterline goes past the seal. You can then check for any leaks, but a watertight seal shouldn't have any.
You can now finish the job by putting the rest of the machine back together. To do this, simply reverse all the disassembly steps earlier in this guide.
And there you have it! How to replace washing machine bearings. A lengthy task, but one that's worth it to get your washing machine back in working order without needing to buy a whole new one!
Now that your appliance is fault-free again, it's also a good idea to make sure you're using it as efficiently as possible. Our washing machine energy-saving tips will teach you everything you need to know about running your washing machine in a cost-effective and energy-efficient manner, which will not only save you money on energy bills but also improve its performance and reduce the likelihood of faults.
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